Reading other comments on here it sounds like there used to be a block with a hard to see but good hold around here that's gone this year. Fairly easy aside from the crux which is inconveniently located at the end of a runout.
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Got nervous and had to rest at the penultimate bolt. Didn't realise there had been recent rock fall, a few loose pebbles but otherwise felt fine. One fall at last bolt.
No harder now loose block been removed but route needs a bit of traffic now to clean. The best 6a in that area in my opinion but I pumped out at the top and fell. Very pumpy to start, and a super psychy crux. Super pleased to get this, even though I rested twice.
Next time! We pissed around trying to get an outrageous rockover in on the first move and wound up the locals with Lydia Hook.
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Pumpy with Bebouze. Still can't work this route out. Don't trust pulling in the horn and going right seems desperate. Need some beta to get this ticked. All was going well until the second from last clip where it's pretty run-out.
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Didn't trust the big horn to pull up on so bailed. Fairly straight forward apart from that, just don't trust sketchy Portland rock!! Crux is easily misread with the last clip some distance below. Blew the onsight while I worked it out, but a great route once strung together!
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Wonderful pumpy climb, finishing with a scary crux bolts well apart up here! Soapy rock didn't help really humid - nor route-finding error.
When got it all together; great. I imagine this would be a tricky onsight. Collecting gear after Mathias took a bit of a fall and banged his knee.
I didn't fancy the last bit either, particularly after Mathias had come off, so I just lowered off a bolt. Had trouble moving off the chalked up hold. Nerves of jelly.
Nice route overall, one trickier move towards the top but damn is a good pocket which makes it easy once you know where to go with psborland. As others have stated, very loose at the top, which rattled me enough to these the move to the last bolt seem probably harder than it is. Backed off at this point. Not a great route by any standards. Electric to read top and make final clip. Get an ad-free experience with special benefits, and directly support Reddit. ITcrowd join leave 21, readers 23 users sex now Howdy, and welcome to the subreddit of the best TV Show in the observable universe.
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